On a mild evening on Queen Street, a crowd gathers in anticipation, their senses awakened by something both novel and ancient. Inside the warmly-lit bistro, Chef Maya Green stands over a simmering pot, bringing forgotten Indigenous recipes back to life. Her acclaimed Queen Street restaurant, Cedar & Sage, is making waves by resurrecting First Nations dishes rarely seen in city dining rooms, drawing both curiosity and admiration from Toronto’s diverse culinary community.
Chef Green’s journey began with a meticulous exploration of historical cookbooks, oral histories, and family traditions. “There’s a vast food legacy here that goes far beyond bannock or smoked salmon,” she explains. Green, of Métis and Mi’kmaq heritage, pored over archives and traveled across Ontario, learning directly from elders. Her goal: to introduce guests to the deep culinary traditions that have long been overlooked in mainstream gastronomy.
The revamped menu at Cedar & Sage features ingredients central to First Nations cultures for millennia. Dishes include wild rice salad tossed with sumac vinaigrette, maple-lacquered venison, cedar-steamed lake fish, and a selection of berries that once formed the backbone of local diets. Each plate is a nod to ancestral techniques, such as stone boiling and clay baking, reimagined for a modern audience without compromising authenticity.
Her approach is rooted in cultural respect and collaboration. "Indigenous food is not just about recipes; it’s about storytelling and belonging," Green asserts. She continually consults with knowledge keepers, including Mohawk chef Darryl Sault, who adds, "Every ingredient, every method, resonates with history. Maya’s commitment to accuracy and honour elevates what she serves." Such collaboration ensures the menu is both historically accurate and respectful.
Patrons of Cedar & Sage are responding enthusiastically. Reservations are booked weeks in advance, and online reviews frequently praise both the unique flavours and the educational ambience. Local food critic Sandra Lo writes, "Chef Green doesn’t just serve food; she offers a narrative that invites diners to reconsider what Canadian cuisine can be." This broader appreciation is helping to spark conversations city-wide about food heritage.
Reviving these recipes also poses challenges. Sourcing authentic ingredients like wild leeks, bison, staghorn sumac, and cedar isn’t always straightforward. Green works closely with foragers, local hunters, and Indigenous-run cooperatives to maintain a steady supply while honoring sustainable practices. "We never take more than what’s needed. It’s about stewardship as much as sustenance," she says, reflecting a key value in First Nations foodways.
The educational aspect extends beyond the dining room. Cedar & Sage now hosts monthly workshops focused on Indigenous cooking methods, foraging walks, and storytelling evenings led by elders. These events, often booked solid, offer Toronto residents a rare chance to connect directly with living traditions. Chef Green sees these sessions as a vital way to break down stereotypes and reconnect urban audiences with the land’s original caretakers.
In addition to reviving recipes, the bistro carefully highlights the origins and cultural context of each dish throughout the menu. Beside the name of every entrée are short explanations, often referencing historical uses or seasonal rituals. Executive sous-chef Anita Blackbird notes, "People are often surprised to discover just how sophisticated and resourceful First Nations cuisine has always been." This transparency fosters appreciation and sparks lively dinner conversation.
The impact of Chef Green’s initiative ripples beyond her own establishment. Several Toronto culinary schools have reached out, seeking her expertise to develop Indigenous-focused courses. "There’s a hunger—literally and figuratively—for this knowledge," says culinary program coordinator Jonas Wiens. By providing input on educational resources, Green is helping to train the next generation of chefs to think more inclusively about Canadian food history.
For many Indigenous guests, dining at Cedar & Sage is an emotional homecoming. "It’s comforting to recognize these flavours from my childhood," says patron Melissa Stone, an Ojibwe educator. For others, it’s a revelatory experience—one that challenges old assumptions. Green observes, "Sharing a meal is powerful. These dishes carry memories and values that reach far beyond the table and into the heart of cultural identity."
As the restaurant’s reputation grows, so does Chef Green’s ambition. She is currently working on a cookbook that will document the recipes and stories gathered during her research journeys. "I want to make Indigenous cuisine accessible for everyone, from home cooks to professionals," she explains. In doing so, Green hopes to further bridge the gap between past and present, bringing a vital tradition to wider audiences.
Cedar & Sage’s success signifies a turning point for Toronto’s food scene and its relationship to Indigenous heritage. By blending deep respect for tradition with inventive presentations, Chef Green exemplifies how culinary innovation and cultural revival can go hand in hand. As diners continue to flock to Queen Street, one thing is clear: these long-forgotten recipes are finding a new, vibrant life at the heart of the city’s culinary landscape.